![]() ![]() ![]() – The cases I want to label are 40x20x10 mm (LxWxH), I print from 4 to 10 cases at once. – The sheet of paper was hold in place with some adhesive tape – I print using PETG filament (because it does not melt in sunny days, and it does not smell when I print it) – I drawn marks on the (glass) hotbed to know were my cases will be printed using a pen – I use a “classical” 3D printer (Geeetech I3 Pro B) with a heated glass print bed ![]() So just after reading this article I gave it a try at this method, but using simple paper instead of transparency film (because I don’t have some, all my stock was used during the COVID pandemy ). I also started to directly melt toner on printed cases using a laser (5W), but it’s quite time consuming and placing toner powder on the printed object is tricky and not healthy (it would release a lot of toner powder in the air). A stamping machine is quite expensive and does not allow to have lots of different labels (you need to engrave an iron sheet for each different label). I was considering buying or making a stamping machine. ![]() I use from 10 to 20 cases a week, so I need a fast and reliable process (the case should stay at a low price in material, and in human resources). I have 6 different labels depending on what is inside the case thus need a flexible way to deal with demands. The box / cases I want to label are quite small: 40x20x10 mm (LxWxH), so I print from 4 to 10 cases at once. Using stickers is not clean enough (labels wears in time). I currently print custom box for small electronic devices, and I need to have electrical specifications written on them, plus my logo. Posted in 3d Printer hacks Tagged 3d print, colour, enclosure, images, laser printer, printer, toner tranfer, transfers Post navigation Here’s a quick video of the toner transfer process. If you’re interested in toner transfer for less heat-sensitive materials, then check out this guide from a few years back, or see what other Hackaday readers have been doing on wood or brass. We’ve covered some other ways to get color and images onto 3D prints in the past, such as this hydrographic technique or by using an inkjet printhead, but ’s idea looks much simpler than either of those. But on the other hand, there will be some readers who already have everything they need to try this out at home right now - and we’d love to see the results! Aligning the transfer and the print looks a little fiddly at the moment, the transparency material used (obviously) has to be rated for use in laser printers, and it only works on flat surfaces. If it’s hard to visualize, check out the video after the break for a step-by-step guide. When finished, the image should be fused with the plastic. From there, the print can continue on as normal. Using a paper towel, the transparency gets smoothed out until the bubbles are pushed off to the edges.Īnother few pieces of tape hold the transparency down on all corners, and the hotend height is adjusted to take into account the transparency thickness. The plastic that’s been deposited already is then removed, and a little water is placed on the center of the bed. Then, once the 3D printer has laid down the first layer of the object, you align the transparency over it and tape it down so it doesn’t move around. The method is remarkably straightforward, and could represent a game-changer for hobbyists trying to achieve professional-looking full-color images on their prints.įirst, the mirrored image is printed onto a piece of transparency film with a laser printer. The fine detail is great for intuitive front-panel designs has a solution that literally turns the concept on its head, by 3D printing directly onto the transparency sheet. Toner transfer is a commonly-used technique for applying text and images to flat surfaces such as PCBs, but anybody who has considered using the same method on 3D prints will have realized that the heat from the iron would be a problem. ![]()
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